Tuesday, November 27, 2018

Hands-On The Breitling Chronomat Colt Automatic 41 Watch


In step with their ongoing brand refresh, Breitling recently announced an update to their Chronomat Colt range that offers a new look in both 44mm and 41mm sizes. While the 41mm diameter is not new to the Colt line, it does represent something of a sweet spot in terms of sport watch size and Breitling has included a pair of new dial colors in this low-key but welcome rethinking of the everyman's Chronomat.

Typically characterized by a chunky steel bezel with Breitling's signature "rider tabs" for added grip, the Chronomat line has traditionally housed a wide and varying array of watches that all loosely fall into the "all purpose" category. Tough, burly, and often quite large, Breitling has seen fit to continue the Chronomat's placement within their lineup, distinct from their newly defined Air/Water/Earth organization scheme (which is represented by the Navitimer, Superocean, and Transocean, respectively). The Colt has traditionally been one of the entry-level models from Breitling and it has always blended a sort of military appeal with the basic philosophy of a dive watch.

For this Baselworld 2018 refresh, the format remains unchanged, with a 41mm steel case sporting a wide steel bezel, chunky lugs, and the option of either the Pilot steel bracelet or a black leather strap. The design is nicely utilitarian, with a simple, legible, and balanced dial, with long hands, and a pop of red on the arrowhead tip of the seconds hand. Just as sport-ready as it looks, the Colt has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screw down crown, a solid steel caseback, and 200 meters water resistance. With a fuss-free and nicely-executed date function at three, the Colt remains a very solid everyday sports watch.

The dial


Along with the dial design, the most noteworthy aspect of this Colt refresh comes down to dial color. Now offered in either "Silver" (seen below, more of a matte creamy light-grey) or "Tempest Gray" (metallic, with a brushed sunray finish), both versions of the Colt look really good. I especially like the unexpectedly modern feel of the matte Silver dial as it is surrounded by the brushed steel of the Colt's bezel. While both dial options work well for the Colt design, the Tempest Gray dial is classic Breitling while the Silver dial is just a bit strange (in a good way).

While certainly heavy on the Pilot steel bracelet, being 41mm wide and 12.4mm thick, the Colt wears really well and I think it would be even better on a simple leather or canvas strap. The bezel action is smooth, and aided in grip by the rather baroque rider tabs. In this size, the Colt has presence and heft, but not so much that it overpowers my seven-inch wrist. Despite my preference for a light-toned dial, in either color I think the Colt is one of Breitling's most well-rounded offerings and an attractive option for anyone wanting a tough everyday sports watch that isn't especially flashy.

The Breitling Chronomat Colt Automatic 41 replica watch uses the ETA-based Breitling 17 movement (base, ETA 2824) with time and date, and a power reserve of around 40 hours. Priced at $3,240 on a leather strap, or $3,620 on the Pilot steel bracelet shown in these photos, the Colt will not be without fierce competition from all sides. Offering an entirely wearable spin on that attractive Breitling sports watch motif, the Colt 41 manages to nail the appeal of a solid, well-built, all-rounder.

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Monday, November 12, 2018

Introducing The IWC Portugieser Automatic In Stainless Steel

 

Quick Take


Another new IWC introduction being announced today, also in the Portugieser line, is this new stainless steel automatic offering. It comes with a silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated hands that pair well with the chosen case material. This is a nice update on a familiar design within the dressy Portugieser line. The small seconds at 9 o'clock are balanced by the power-reserve indicator at 3 o'clock.  The power reserve that's being indicated is a more than ample seven days, considering that this is a self-winding watch equipped with an in-house movement from IWC. Further, the movement has been engineered with the company's Pellaton winding system, devised to maximize the amount of energy transmitted to and stored in the barrel by the rotor's movements.

Initial Thoughts


This is a nice looking stainless steel wristwatch with an equally well-engineered in-house automatic movement and an extended power reserve. If there was ever any doubt that IWC makes an elegant wristwatch, a simple Portugieser like this ought to lay it to rest. Now, for many readers, this IWC Portugieser Automatic In Stainless Steel replica watch's 42.3mm case is going to wear on the larger side, but that is kind of the  idea with the Portugieser. It's a watch that was developed from the early days to utilize pocket watch movements in oversized wristwatches. If this guy is too big for you but you're on board with the overall aesthetic, then the the company's Portofino line may merit a look.

The Basics


Brand: IWC
Model: Portugieser Automatic
Reference Number: IW500712

Diameter: 42.3mm
Thickness: 14.2mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Silver
Indexes: Applied numerals
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strap

The Movement


Caliber: IWC 52010
Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds
Diameter: 38.2mm
Power Reserve: 7 Days
Winding: Automatic, Pellaton-style
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 31

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Thursday, November 1, 2018

Introducing The TAG Heuer Carbon Aquaracer Replica Watches

 

Quick Take


What we have here is the latest in TAG Heuer's accessibly priced Aquaracer line of dive watches. They come with impressive water resistance to 300 meters and an automatic Caliber 5 movement, which is based the ETA 2824-2 (though there have been Sellita-based versions as well).  The name attached to this watch is the Carbon Aquaracer, and indeed the bezel is made from lightweight carbon and black PVD steel, while the cases themselves are made of grade 5 titanium that's been PVD coated too. There are three different versions of this watch, and their variations are reflected in the dials, each of which features a carbon pattern and accents in either rose gold, yellow, or blue.

Initial Thoughts


This is a stealthy take on a classic of modern TAG Heuer design, and I'm a fan of the overall aesthetic, though I do wonder how legible this watch would be if put into service on a deep dive: the carbon fiber dial motif seems to have a kind of camouflage effect, at least to my eye. However, the bright yellow, bright blue, and rose gold indexes would seem to mitigate this effect to some degree. This watch is in fact not made from carbon fiber – just parts of the bezel are. The dial merely has a carbon motif and the case is made from PVD titanium. This does cause one to wonder why the word "carbon" features so prominently in the name of the watch, but it looks the part nonetheless.


The Basics


Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carbon Aquaracer
Reference Number:  WBD218A.FC6445 (rose gold); WBD218B.FC6446 (yellow); WBD218C.FC6447 (blue)

Diameter: 41mm
Case Material: Black PVD coated grade 5 titanium with steel and carbon bezel
Dial Color: Carbon fiber pattern with rose gold, blue, or yellow accents
Indexes: Faceted indexes polished and lacquered in rose gold or plated with black gold
Lume: Yes, grey Super-LumiNova in hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black nylon strap with black, yellow, or blue topstitching to match the dial

The Movement


Caliber: TAG Heuer Caliber 5 (Based on the ETA 2824-2)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 25.6mm
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 26

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Wednesday, October 31, 2018

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph ‘Summer Edition’ Replica Watch

Born from the necessity to placed on chino shorts, boat footwear, plus a Hawaiian shirt, IWC gets forth a completely new summer time time timepiece known as IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph ?°Summer Edition?± watch. The Portugieser lines are a mainstay for IWC for quite some time now which is frequently the street the Schaffhausen manufacturer exercises their implementations of complicated movements with. This wrist watch was produced getting a deliberate nod for the casual. After I alluded to earlier it may be in your house around the leisure yacht or possibly an elegant Caribbean resort. It provides a blue panda dial, while using minute and hour counter for your chronograph sitting at noon as well as the ticking seconds sub-dial at 6 o?ˉclock. Additionally, there are red accents accumulating the middle of the most effective half from the dial to choose the seconds hands.

The size


This wrist watch is sized well at 43.5mm wide and 14.2mm thick. IWC utilized their manufacture caliber 89361 including the double register at noon, flyback chronograph function, plus a 68-hour power reserve. Flipping the keep close track of you?ˉre treated with a display back that showcases the movement. IWC, while you?ˉd expect, did an admirable job decorating the movement plus a signed rotor. Furthermore with this watch, IWC has announced a small range of fabric straps to accompany their Summer time time Edition releases.

Nearly three years ago my partner and fogeys kidnapped me like a birthday present and needed me to Bequia. The trip was full of hot climate, rum drinks, or perhaps a sailboat trip to the Tobago Cays this is where I look at this watch gelling aside from one characteristic, the depth rating. I like the aesthetic, but that IWC precisely taken the spirit from the sunshine and summer time time vacation, though a depth rating of 60m, I am dubious from the products happens in case you fall overboard. I suppose technically 60m needs to be appropriate for swimming. However, I don't know the amount of folks would risk it getting a wrist watch as of this cost. Depth rating aside, this is often a handsome watch getting a properly polished situation plus an attractive blue sunburst dial. The display back round the watch adds a great element of intricacy for the piece helping you to start to see the in-house chronograph working away - that’s always a great additional benefit.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Summer Edition”replica watch is perfect for me, a great accessory for what is a normally very dressy line from IWC. I question their choice around the depth rating with this particular watch, and they’ve even attended date regarding put the watch around the rubber strap (from what Let me tell) when you purchase it. In addition, For me this is a great addition for someone’s summer time time trip package.

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Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Hands-on TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph


The Carrera turns 55 this year and TAG Heuer revisits its famous automotive chronograph with two models emblazoned with colours inspired by the world of auto racing. Available in a 41mm steel case with a vibrant blue or black dial and the distinctive 12-6-9 layout of the counters, the entry-level cheap TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 replica watch captures the racing spirit of the classic Carrera with a youthful splash of colour and a dose of vintage. Smaller in size than its 43mm predecessors, the Carrera Calibre 16 duo have dispensed with the day window and substituted the prominent numerals on the dial with hour markers treated with faux-aged beige lume.

A racing legend


If there is one watch everybody associates with auto racing, it is the Heuer Carrera. Named after the Carrera Panamericana – a gruelling and dangerous 3,000 km race along the Mexican portion of the Pan-American Highway – the Carrera has been a cornerstone of the brand since 1963. Designed by Jack Heuer, who inherited his great-grandfather’s obsession to atomise time into ever smaller particles and measure it accurately – you can use this quote to describe a chronograph in order to excel in high society – the Carrera was born out of his passion for motorsports. Making his decisive move into the world of auto racing in 1964, Heuer established the brand as the watch reference of countless racing events around the world. The Carrera was specifically designed to bring the speed and emotion of the race track to motorsports enthusiasts and drivers alike.

To celebrate its 55th birthday, the Carrera has appeared in a sophisticated collectors-only limited edition Tête de Vipère chronograph tourbillon chronometer and a GMT model, both with hyper-modern (Hublotian) skeletonised dials and modular cases. Which is precisely why it is nice to see a return to the more classic styling of these Carrera Calibre 16 models along with a price tag of under CHF 4,500, which will get the motors of a younger generation revved up and raring to go.

The race to lower prices

 

Ever since Jean-Claude Biver took the reins at TAG in 2015, the brand has steered production away from its high-mechanical timepieces (remember the Mikrogrider?), refocused its core business on watches in the CHF 2,000-6,000 range, and targeted an audience of 18-35 year olds (hence the connected watch and brand ambassadors like Cara Delevingne). High-end watches have not been abandoned at TAG, but the pricing policy remains aggressive. The Tête de Vipère, for example, is a highly sophisticated tourbillon chronograph with a chronometer certification from Besançon, and its price tag under CHF 20,000 situates it as the most affordable complication of this type on the market.

The need for speed


To measure the lap speed of your favourite team on the race track, the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph watches are fitted with a tachymeter scale. Both models come in 41mm steel cases with water-resistance of 100 metres and feature either a black or blue ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale with white markings. The case, the pushers and the crown are polished and contrast, in the case of the model with the blue dial, with the brushed finish on the bracelet. A welcome nod to the past is the use of the interior bevel to display the 60-second scale, a feature that Jack Heuer invented in the 1960s to keep the dial of his Carrera as clean as possible. The white flange features black and red markers for heightened legibility.

The three sub-dials, arranged at 12-6-9 are white and snailed and the chronograph hands are picked out in a bright lacquered red colour. Although there have been some objections about the use of the vintage-style lume on the hands and hour markers, I think it is a cool touch and looks very much like the treatment given to the hands and markers of a 1962 Autavia. In fact, the combination of the beige lume with the orange markings on the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock of the blue model reminds me of the Gulf livery emblazoned on the Monaco Gulf Special Edition 50th anniversary watch. I also like the way the facetted hour blocks have been hewn at sharp angles or reduced to a tiny base to accommodate the counters and the date window.

Reliable Calibre 16


As legendary as the design of this TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph is the automatic movement powering its functions earning it a mention of honour on the dial, just below the date window. TAG Heuer’s Calibre 16 (aka ETA 7750/Sellita SW500), regarded by many as the most successful chronograph movement ever produced with a practically indestructible self-winding mechanism, is the faithful motor inside the case of the latest Carreras. Beating at a frequency of 28,800vph / 4Hz, the watch has a power reserve of 42 hours. If you are interested in the full story behind this resilient beast of burden, don’t miss this excellent review on Calibre 11.

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Sunday, October 7, 2018

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial 41.5mm 231.20.42.21.02.001 Replica Watch



I recently learned an interesting fact regarding the history of the Omega Seamaster collection. The Seamaster and Seamaster Planet Oceans that we know today are hardy tool watches suitable for diving, James Bond, and overall feeling like high-function instruments that is made really well. You'd think these pieces started out as serious dive watches. That isn't the case actually. When the first Seamaster watches came out, Omega had other pieces in its collection that were more focused on sport. The Seamaster was meant to be a fashionable watch that one could wear up in the Hamptons while playing with their kids and not worry if it got splashed on. It was meant to be a luxury watch from day one.

Overtime the Seamaster became an icon and important watch for Omega - especially as the brand continued to focus on a range of important high-intensity activities from racing to diving, and everything else where sturdy and reliable watches were needed. Flash-forward to now and we have an incredibly wide range of Seamaster watches, and its higher-end cousin the Seamaster Planet Ocean. For review I am checking out two 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watches which well represent where the collection and brand are at today.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial 41.5mm 231.20.42.21.02.001
This model features a lacquered silvery dial decorated with the Teak Concept pattern and a date window at 3 o'clock. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects this unique dial. The 18ct red gold bezel is mounted on a 41.5 mm stainless steel case and is presented on a stainless steel and 18ct red gold bracelet.

Brand:Omega
Series:Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial 41.5mm
Model:231.20.42.21.02.001
Size:Mens
Case Diameter:41.5mm
Case Thickness:13.2mm
Movement:Automatic
Case Material:Stainless Steel & Rose Gold
Dial Color:Silver
Bracelet/Strap:Stainless Steel & Rose Gold Brushed & Polished
Clasp Type:Push Button Folding Clasp
Bezel:Fixed
Crystal:Scratch Resistant Sapphire
Case Back:Transparent
Screw Down Crown:Yes
Water Resistant:150m/500ft

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Monday, October 1, 2018

First Take The Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic Watch

 

Quick Take


For the first time ever, Hublot is making a watch almost entirely of bright red ceramic. The new material, which Hublot is calling "vibrantly colored ceramic" is a harder, more color-rich ceramic for which they've received a patent (that covers more than just the red you see here). The material has been seen before, as the bezel of the Hublot big bang Ferrari Unico Carbon Red Ceramic replica watch, however this is the first time the polished red ceramic is being used as the main case material for a watch. This version of the brand's Big Bang Unico chronograph is a limited edition of 500 pieces, though Hublot is saying that there will be lots of variations on this theme in the future.

Why This Watch Matters


This watch is all about that bright red ceramic. According to Hublot, what allows the ceramic to stay so brightly colored is that it is sintered in a different way that sets the ceramic without burning the added pigment, which would normally dull the color. While I think the recent trend toward casing watches in massive blocks of colored sapphire (another Hublot favorite) is mostly just a fad, I think colored ceramics and high-strength ceramics have the ability to change the way watches are made long term. Whether or not a vivid red chronograph is your bag or not, this watch does have implications that could end up affecting your own watches someday.

Initial Thoughts


In case you had any doubts, this watch definitely isn't to my personal taste. It's big, it's in-your-face, and it's not ashamed of any of that. That's not really my thing. However, from a material science standpoint, I do find it really interesting. There's a lot more out there than just the usual suspects – steel, titanium, gold, platinum, and the like – and even those can be altered and modified in all kinds of interesting ways. A brand of Hublot's size and industry stature has the resources to really experiment in this direction (with Omega being another notable leader here), and it's good to see them pushing thing.


The Basics


Brand: Hublot
Model: Big Bang Unico Red Magic
Reference Number: 411.CF.8513.RX

Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 15.45mm
Case Material: Polished red ceramic, black ceramic, black composite resin
Dial Color: Skeletonized with red accents
Indexes: Arabic numerals and batons
Lume: Black luminescent material on hands and indexes
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black and red lined rubber strap, black PVD titanium buckle with black ceramic insert

The Movement


Caliber: Hublot HUB1242
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, flyback chronograph
Diameter: 30mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 38
Total Components: 330
Additional Details: Chronograph uses both a column wheel and a double clutch

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