Thursday, November 1, 2018

Introducing The TAG Heuer Carbon Aquaracer Replica Watches

 

Quick Take


What we have here is the latest in TAG Heuer's accessibly priced Aquaracer line of dive watches. They come with impressive water resistance to 300 meters and an automatic Caliber 5 movement, which is based the ETA 2824-2 (though there have been Sellita-based versions as well).  The name attached to this watch is the Carbon Aquaracer, and indeed the bezel is made from lightweight carbon and black PVD steel, while the cases themselves are made of grade 5 titanium that's been PVD coated too. There are three different versions of this watch, and their variations are reflected in the dials, each of which features a carbon pattern and accents in either rose gold, yellow, or blue.

Initial Thoughts


This is a stealthy take on a classic of modern TAG Heuer design, and I'm a fan of the overall aesthetic, though I do wonder how legible this watch would be if put into service on a deep dive: the carbon fiber dial motif seems to have a kind of camouflage effect, at least to my eye. However, the bright yellow, bright blue, and rose gold indexes would seem to mitigate this effect to some degree. This watch is in fact not made from carbon fiber – just parts of the bezel are. The dial merely has a carbon motif and the case is made from PVD titanium. This does cause one to wonder why the word "carbon" features so prominently in the name of the watch, but it looks the part nonetheless.


The Basics


Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carbon Aquaracer
Reference Number:  WBD218A.FC6445 (rose gold); WBD218B.FC6446 (yellow); WBD218C.FC6447 (blue)

Diameter: 41mm
Case Material: Black PVD coated grade 5 titanium with steel and carbon bezel
Dial Color: Carbon fiber pattern with rose gold, blue, or yellow accents
Indexes: Faceted indexes polished and lacquered in rose gold or plated with black gold
Lume: Yes, grey Super-LumiNova in hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black nylon strap with black, yellow, or blue topstitching to match the dial

The Movement


Caliber: TAG Heuer Caliber 5 (Based on the ETA 2824-2)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 25.6mm
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 26

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Wednesday, October 31, 2018

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph ‘Summer Edition’ Replica Watch

Born from the necessity to placed on chino shorts, boat footwear, plus a Hawaiian shirt, IWC gets forth a completely new summer time time timepiece known as IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph ?°Summer Edition?± watch. The Portugieser lines are a mainstay for IWC for quite some time now which is frequently the street the Schaffhausen manufacturer exercises their implementations of complicated movements with. This wrist watch was produced getting a deliberate nod for the casual. After I alluded to earlier it may be in your house around the leisure yacht or possibly an elegant Caribbean resort. It provides a blue panda dial, while using minute and hour counter for your chronograph sitting at noon as well as the ticking seconds sub-dial at 6 o?ˉclock. Additionally, there are red accents accumulating the middle of the most effective half from the dial to choose the seconds hands.

The size


This wrist watch is sized well at 43.5mm wide and 14.2mm thick. IWC utilized their manufacture caliber 89361 including the double register at noon, flyback chronograph function, plus a 68-hour power reserve. Flipping the keep close track of you?ˉre treated with a display back that showcases the movement. IWC, while you?ˉd expect, did an admirable job decorating the movement plus a signed rotor. Furthermore with this watch, IWC has announced a small range of fabric straps to accompany their Summer time time Edition releases.

Nearly three years ago my partner and fogeys kidnapped me like a birthday present and needed me to Bequia. The trip was full of hot climate, rum drinks, or perhaps a sailboat trip to the Tobago Cays this is where I look at this watch gelling aside from one characteristic, the depth rating. I like the aesthetic, but that IWC precisely taken the spirit from the sunshine and summer time time vacation, though a depth rating of 60m, I am dubious from the products happens in case you fall overboard. I suppose technically 60m needs to be appropriate for swimming. However, I don't know the amount of folks would risk it getting a wrist watch as of this cost. Depth rating aside, this is often a handsome watch getting a properly polished situation plus an attractive blue sunburst dial. The display back round the watch adds a great element of intricacy for the piece helping you to start to see the in-house chronograph working away - that’s always a great additional benefit.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Summer Edition”replica watch is perfect for me, a great accessory for what is a normally very dressy line from IWC. I question their choice around the depth rating with this particular watch, and they’ve even attended date regarding put the watch around the rubber strap (from what Let me tell) when you purchase it. In addition, For me this is a great addition for someone’s summer time time trip package.

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Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Hands-on TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph


The Carrera turns 55 this year and TAG Heuer revisits its famous automotive chronograph with two models emblazoned with colours inspired by the world of auto racing. Available in a 41mm steel case with a vibrant blue or black dial and the distinctive 12-6-9 layout of the counters, the entry-level cheap TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 replica watch captures the racing spirit of the classic Carrera with a youthful splash of colour and a dose of vintage. Smaller in size than its 43mm predecessors, the Carrera Calibre 16 duo have dispensed with the day window and substituted the prominent numerals on the dial with hour markers treated with faux-aged beige lume.

A racing legend


If there is one watch everybody associates with auto racing, it is the Heuer Carrera. Named after the Carrera Panamericana – a gruelling and dangerous 3,000 km race along the Mexican portion of the Pan-American Highway – the Carrera has been a cornerstone of the brand since 1963. Designed by Jack Heuer, who inherited his great-grandfather’s obsession to atomise time into ever smaller particles and measure it accurately – you can use this quote to describe a chronograph in order to excel in high society – the Carrera was born out of his passion for motorsports. Making his decisive move into the world of auto racing in 1964, Heuer established the brand as the watch reference of countless racing events around the world. The Carrera was specifically designed to bring the speed and emotion of the race track to motorsports enthusiasts and drivers alike.

To celebrate its 55th birthday, the Carrera has appeared in a sophisticated collectors-only limited edition Tête de Vipère chronograph tourbillon chronometer and a GMT model, both with hyper-modern (Hublotian) skeletonised dials and modular cases. Which is precisely why it is nice to see a return to the more classic styling of these Carrera Calibre 16 models along with a price tag of under CHF 4,500, which will get the motors of a younger generation revved up and raring to go.

The race to lower prices

 

Ever since Jean-Claude Biver took the reins at TAG in 2015, the brand has steered production away from its high-mechanical timepieces (remember the Mikrogrider?), refocused its core business on watches in the CHF 2,000-6,000 range, and targeted an audience of 18-35 year olds (hence the connected watch and brand ambassadors like Cara Delevingne). High-end watches have not been abandoned at TAG, but the pricing policy remains aggressive. The Tête de Vipère, for example, is a highly sophisticated tourbillon chronograph with a chronometer certification from Besançon, and its price tag under CHF 20,000 situates it as the most affordable complication of this type on the market.

The need for speed


To measure the lap speed of your favourite team on the race track, the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph watches are fitted with a tachymeter scale. Both models come in 41mm steel cases with water-resistance of 100 metres and feature either a black or blue ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale with white markings. The case, the pushers and the crown are polished and contrast, in the case of the model with the blue dial, with the brushed finish on the bracelet. A welcome nod to the past is the use of the interior bevel to display the 60-second scale, a feature that Jack Heuer invented in the 1960s to keep the dial of his Carrera as clean as possible. The white flange features black and red markers for heightened legibility.

The three sub-dials, arranged at 12-6-9 are white and snailed and the chronograph hands are picked out in a bright lacquered red colour. Although there have been some objections about the use of the vintage-style lume on the hands and hour markers, I think it is a cool touch and looks very much like the treatment given to the hands and markers of a 1962 Autavia. In fact, the combination of the beige lume with the orange markings on the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock of the blue model reminds me of the Gulf livery emblazoned on the Monaco Gulf Special Edition 50th anniversary watch. I also like the way the facetted hour blocks have been hewn at sharp angles or reduced to a tiny base to accommodate the counters and the date window.

Reliable Calibre 16


As legendary as the design of this TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph is the automatic movement powering its functions earning it a mention of honour on the dial, just below the date window. TAG Heuer’s Calibre 16 (aka ETA 7750/Sellita SW500), regarded by many as the most successful chronograph movement ever produced with a practically indestructible self-winding mechanism, is the faithful motor inside the case of the latest Carreras. Beating at a frequency of 28,800vph / 4Hz, the watch has a power reserve of 42 hours. If you are interested in the full story behind this resilient beast of burden, don’t miss this excellent review on Calibre 11.

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Sunday, October 7, 2018

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial 41.5mm 231.20.42.21.02.001 Replica Watch



I recently learned an interesting fact regarding the history of the Omega Seamaster collection. The Seamaster and Seamaster Planet Oceans that we know today are hardy tool watches suitable for diving, James Bond, and overall feeling like high-function instruments that is made really well. You'd think these pieces started out as serious dive watches. That isn't the case actually. When the first Seamaster watches came out, Omega had other pieces in its collection that were more focused on sport. The Seamaster was meant to be a fashionable watch that one could wear up in the Hamptons while playing with their kids and not worry if it got splashed on. It was meant to be a luxury watch from day one.

Overtime the Seamaster became an icon and important watch for Omega - especially as the brand continued to focus on a range of important high-intensity activities from racing to diving, and everything else where sturdy and reliable watches were needed. Flash-forward to now and we have an incredibly wide range of Seamaster watches, and its higher-end cousin the Seamaster Planet Ocean. For review I am checking out two 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chronometer watches which well represent where the collection and brand are at today.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial 41.5mm 231.20.42.21.02.001
This model features a lacquered silvery dial decorated with the Teak Concept pattern and a date window at 3 o'clock. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects this unique dial. The 18ct red gold bezel is mounted on a 41.5 mm stainless steel case and is presented on a stainless steel and 18ct red gold bracelet.

Brand:Omega
Series:Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial 41.5mm
Model:231.20.42.21.02.001
Size:Mens
Case Diameter:41.5mm
Case Thickness:13.2mm
Movement:Automatic
Case Material:Stainless Steel & Rose Gold
Dial Color:Silver
Bracelet/Strap:Stainless Steel & Rose Gold Brushed & Polished
Clasp Type:Push Button Folding Clasp
Bezel:Fixed
Crystal:Scratch Resistant Sapphire
Case Back:Transparent
Screw Down Crown:Yes
Water Resistant:150m/500ft

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Monday, October 1, 2018

First Take The Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic Watch

 

Quick Take


For the first time ever, Hublot is making a watch almost entirely of bright red ceramic. The new material, which Hublot is calling "vibrantly colored ceramic" is a harder, more color-rich ceramic for which they've received a patent (that covers more than just the red you see here). The material has been seen before, as the bezel of the Hublot big bang Ferrari Unico Carbon Red Ceramic replica watch, however this is the first time the polished red ceramic is being used as the main case material for a watch. This version of the brand's Big Bang Unico chronograph is a limited edition of 500 pieces, though Hublot is saying that there will be lots of variations on this theme in the future.

Why This Watch Matters


This watch is all about that bright red ceramic. According to Hublot, what allows the ceramic to stay so brightly colored is that it is sintered in a different way that sets the ceramic without burning the added pigment, which would normally dull the color. While I think the recent trend toward casing watches in massive blocks of colored sapphire (another Hublot favorite) is mostly just a fad, I think colored ceramics and high-strength ceramics have the ability to change the way watches are made long term. Whether or not a vivid red chronograph is your bag or not, this watch does have implications that could end up affecting your own watches someday.

Initial Thoughts


In case you had any doubts, this watch definitely isn't to my personal taste. It's big, it's in-your-face, and it's not ashamed of any of that. That's not really my thing. However, from a material science standpoint, I do find it really interesting. There's a lot more out there than just the usual suspects – steel, titanium, gold, platinum, and the like – and even those can be altered and modified in all kinds of interesting ways. A brand of Hublot's size and industry stature has the resources to really experiment in this direction (with Omega being another notable leader here), and it's good to see them pushing thing.


The Basics


Brand: Hublot
Model: Big Bang Unico Red Magic
Reference Number: 411.CF.8513.RX

Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 15.45mm
Case Material: Polished red ceramic, black ceramic, black composite resin
Dial Color: Skeletonized with red accents
Indexes: Arabic numerals and batons
Lume: Black luminescent material on hands and indexes
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black and red lined rubber strap, black PVD titanium buckle with black ceramic insert

The Movement


Caliber: Hublot HUB1242
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, flyback chronograph
Diameter: 30mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 38
Total Components: 330
Additional Details: Chronograph uses both a column wheel and a double clutch

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Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Hands-On The TAG Heuer Carrera 'Tête de Vipère' Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer


While the last decade and a half have seen a slow and inexorable upward creep of the cost of luxury watches, there have also been, more recently, some rather disruptive pricing strategies as well. Montblanc, for instance, introduced a steel perpetual calendar in 2014 which is just $12,800 (of course "just" is relative, thirteen grand is indisputably a lot of simoleons for us working stiffs, but you know, still). This year, Longines fielded an annual calendar for under $3,000. And in 2016, TAG Heuer introduced the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T replica watch– a tourbillon chronograph priced at $15,950, about which Patek Philippe's Thierry Stern said, very bluntly, "(it's) nearly a joke to me...if they're willing to try to kill the quality of the Swiss product, I think they're on a very good track."

As much as it might have aroused ire in some quarters, however, the race to bring in traditionally very expensive complications at lower and lower prices does make an interesting point, which is that given sufficient economies of scale, and with modern manufacturing techniques, it is possible to produce working, reliable versions of traditionally extremely expensive complications at surprisingly – even shockingly – low prices. You give up things like time-consuming hand finishing, of course, and you have lower expectations in terms of things like case complexity and dial quality, but at the current prices for a well-finished perpetual (for example) from one of the Big Three (or Four, if you want Lange in as well) this alternative approach means an awful lot of people can get into high complications today, who couldn't have five years ago.

In any event, the Tourbillon Chronograph 02T seems to be here to stay (although the price has oonched up to $17,000, I notice; still a Low! Low! Price! by the standards of modern quote fine watchmaking unquote). As a way of sweetening the pot, this year TAG Heuer has released a new version of the watch, which is a certified chronometer. And it's not just any ole' run of the mill COSC cert; instead, the watches will be certified by the observatory at Besançon, France – not far from the northern border of the Swiss Jura.

Besançon at one time had a thriving watch industry which, at its peak, employed over 20,000 workers; now only about 1,500 people work in the watch industry there, which collapsed thanks to the Quartz Crisis – most markedly with the closing of Lip, in 1975. The observatory there was, like the observatories at Kew in England, and Geneva, engaged in the certification of chronometers and it still occasionally does so today. The specific mark of certification by the Besançon observatory was, and still is, the so-called Tête de Vipère – the Viper's Head. Besançon certified its first chronometer – a marine chronometer – in 1897, but got out of the business in the 1970s; in 2006, however, it began accepting watches for certification again, and since then about 500 watches have received its approval as chronometers.

If you weren't a fan of the original design in 2016 – however much you may be wowed by the price – the Tête de Vipère is not likely to change your mind; an open dial, ceramic bezel-and-case sports chronograph with tourbillon (and of course, a somewhat inside-baseball chronometer certification) doth not scream Everyman watchmaking from the rooftops.

I am bound to say, however, that in-the-ceramic, I was pretty impressed with the execution – the case is razor sharp and the dial, though the design may raise your hackles, is clean as a whistle. It looks pretty jazzy on the wrist, too; not the kind of watch towards which I'd normally gravitate but as with another of TAG Heuer's releases this year – the much-argued-over Bamford Monaco – I surprised myself by liking the cut of its jib much more than I'd have thought possible, and I do think the Besançon association is kinda neat. The testing procedures sound more or less identical to COSC; 16 days at Besançon and 15 at COSC (a chronometer is a chronometer is a chronometer) but why not have a little terroir avec votre chronomètre, n'est-ce pas?

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Friday, September 14, 2018

Up Close:The Chopard LUC Time Traveller One Watch


Let’s face it, though we at QP do love a good world time watch, their design can lead to criticism from even the most easy-going watch enthusiast. Legibility, ease of setting, and proper management of visual clutter are but a few pieces of the puzzle that will instantly make or break a good world timer. When Chopard unveiled the L.U.C Time Traveler One, offered in platinum, rose gold, and the steel example seen here, we were instantly smitten. From an aesthetic standpoint the Time Traveler One instantly ticked all the boxes, prompting a closer examination after a bit of time on the wrist. Chopard LUC Time Traveller One replica watch.

The desgn


Starting with the visual appeal, the most distinctive design choice from this Chopard release is the use of a couple of vintage-inspired elements, most notably the compressor-style crown configuration at two o’clock and four o’clock. Chopard is not one to dabble in retro design (with the exception of one or two Mille Miglia models), yet it comes across totally naturally here when balanced against a more modern colour palette – and the conscious decision not to include a world map of any kind.

The typeface chosen for its 24 time zone cities invokes a spirit of travel, bearing a resemblance to that often seen in cartography of decades past. To be fair, the black and orange colour combination on the steel model took me a bit of time to warm up to. While reasonably legible, the off-white dial of the rose gold model, and the teal seen on the platinum model would no doubt sell remarkably well if offered in this “entry level” steel model.

The other big win for the Time Traveler One for anyone with an eye for vintage is its compressor-style case. While not a diver by any stretch (rated to only 50m of water resistance), the casing choice works perfectly from both a visual and functional level. Time and date setting is handled by the crown at two o’clock, stamped with an L.U.C logo, where as the four o’clock crown labeled with a globe handles the setting of the city disc when on the go. Measuring 42mm across and a reasonable 12.1mm thick, the Time Traveler One sits very comfortably on the wrist, and strikes a good mid-point to accommodate both smaller and larger wrists without being overpowering, nor underwhelming.

The movement


As with all things Chopard, the Time Traveler One doesn’t sell itself on visual appeal alone. Beating away at 4 Hz, the L.U.C 01.05L self-winding caliber is of course fully developed and manufactured in-house by Chopard. The caliber is chronometer certified, and offers a power reserve of 60 hours. While not a dealbreaker for many, it’s worth noting that this power reserve figure beats at least two of its closer competitors out of the water by a decent margin. The JLC Geophysic Universal Time and Montblanc 4810 Orbis Terrarum by comparison deliver a power reserve of 40 and 42 hours respectively.

The interesting thing about the world timer category is that, unlike more standard complications, playing the side-by-side comparison game isn’t so relevant. By the time you’re in the market for a world time, odds are you’re looking at it being at least the second (if not the fifth or sixth) watch to add to a collection. By then a level of appreciation has developed for particular brands, design styles, and other subjective details, leading the path to a world timer to a much more personal decision, rather than running through and ticking boxes off of a list. That said, at least at a personal level, the Chopard Time Traveler One makes quick work of ticking many (if not all) of said boxes.

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