Tuesday, November 27, 2018

Hands-On The Breitling Chronomat Colt Automatic 41 Watch


In step with their ongoing brand refresh, Breitling recently announced an update to their Chronomat Colt range that offers a new look in both 44mm and 41mm sizes. While the 41mm diameter is not new to the Colt line, it does represent something of a sweet spot in terms of sport watch size and Breitling has included a pair of new dial colors in this low-key but welcome rethinking of the everyman's Chronomat.

Typically characterized by a chunky steel bezel with Breitling's signature "rider tabs" for added grip, the Chronomat line has traditionally housed a wide and varying array of watches that all loosely fall into the "all purpose" category. Tough, burly, and often quite large, Breitling has seen fit to continue the Chronomat's placement within their lineup, distinct from their newly defined Air/Water/Earth organization scheme (which is represented by the Navitimer, Superocean, and Transocean, respectively). The Colt has traditionally been one of the entry-level models from Breitling and it has always blended a sort of military appeal with the basic philosophy of a dive watch.

For this Baselworld 2018 refresh, the format remains unchanged, with a 41mm steel case sporting a wide steel bezel, chunky lugs, and the option of either the Pilot steel bracelet or a black leather strap. The design is nicely utilitarian, with a simple, legible, and balanced dial, with long hands, and a pop of red on the arrowhead tip of the seconds hand. Just as sport-ready as it looks, the Colt has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screw down crown, a solid steel caseback, and 200 meters water resistance. With a fuss-free and nicely-executed date function at three, the Colt remains a very solid everyday sports watch.

The dial


Along with the dial design, the most noteworthy aspect of this Colt refresh comes down to dial color. Now offered in either "Silver" (seen below, more of a matte creamy light-grey) or "Tempest Gray" (metallic, with a brushed sunray finish), both versions of the Colt look really good. I especially like the unexpectedly modern feel of the matte Silver dial as it is surrounded by the brushed steel of the Colt's bezel. While both dial options work well for the Colt design, the Tempest Gray dial is classic Breitling while the Silver dial is just a bit strange (in a good way).

While certainly heavy on the Pilot steel bracelet, being 41mm wide and 12.4mm thick, the Colt wears really well and I think it would be even better on a simple leather or canvas strap. The bezel action is smooth, and aided in grip by the rather baroque rider tabs. In this size, the Colt has presence and heft, but not so much that it overpowers my seven-inch wrist. Despite my preference for a light-toned dial, in either color I think the Colt is one of Breitling's most well-rounded offerings and an attractive option for anyone wanting a tough everyday sports watch that isn't especially flashy.

The Breitling Chronomat Colt Automatic 41 replica watch uses the ETA-based Breitling 17 movement (base, ETA 2824) with time and date, and a power reserve of around 40 hours. Priced at $3,240 on a leather strap, or $3,620 on the Pilot steel bracelet shown in these photos, the Colt will not be without fierce competition from all sides. Offering an entirely wearable spin on that attractive Breitling sports watch motif, the Colt 41 manages to nail the appeal of a solid, well-built, all-rounder.

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Monday, November 12, 2018

Introducing The IWC Portugieser Automatic In Stainless Steel

 

Quick Take


Another new IWC introduction being announced today, also in the Portugieser line, is this new stainless steel automatic offering. It comes with a silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated hands that pair well with the chosen case material. This is a nice update on a familiar design within the dressy Portugieser line. The small seconds at 9 o'clock are balanced by the power-reserve indicator at 3 o'clock.  The power reserve that's being indicated is a more than ample seven days, considering that this is a self-winding watch equipped with an in-house movement from IWC. Further, the movement has been engineered with the company's Pellaton winding system, devised to maximize the amount of energy transmitted to and stored in the barrel by the rotor's movements.

Initial Thoughts


This is a nice looking stainless steel wristwatch with an equally well-engineered in-house automatic movement and an extended power reserve. If there was ever any doubt that IWC makes an elegant wristwatch, a simple Portugieser like this ought to lay it to rest. Now, for many readers, this IWC Portugieser Automatic In Stainless Steel replica watch's 42.3mm case is going to wear on the larger side, but that is kind of the  idea with the Portugieser. It's a watch that was developed from the early days to utilize pocket watch movements in oversized wristwatches. If this guy is too big for you but you're on board with the overall aesthetic, then the the company's Portofino line may merit a look.

The Basics


Brand: IWC
Model: Portugieser Automatic
Reference Number: IW500712

Diameter: 42.3mm
Thickness: 14.2mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Silver
Indexes: Applied numerals
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strap

The Movement


Caliber: IWC 52010
Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds
Diameter: 38.2mm
Power Reserve: 7 Days
Winding: Automatic, Pellaton-style
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 31

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Thursday, November 1, 2018

Introducing The TAG Heuer Carbon Aquaracer Replica Watches

 

Quick Take


What we have here is the latest in TAG Heuer's accessibly priced Aquaracer line of dive watches. They come with impressive water resistance to 300 meters and an automatic Caliber 5 movement, which is based the ETA 2824-2 (though there have been Sellita-based versions as well).  The name attached to this watch is the Carbon Aquaracer, and indeed the bezel is made from lightweight carbon and black PVD steel, while the cases themselves are made of grade 5 titanium that's been PVD coated too. There are three different versions of this watch, and their variations are reflected in the dials, each of which features a carbon pattern and accents in either rose gold, yellow, or blue.

Initial Thoughts


This is a stealthy take on a classic of modern TAG Heuer design, and I'm a fan of the overall aesthetic, though I do wonder how legible this watch would be if put into service on a deep dive: the carbon fiber dial motif seems to have a kind of camouflage effect, at least to my eye. However, the bright yellow, bright blue, and rose gold indexes would seem to mitigate this effect to some degree. This watch is in fact not made from carbon fiber – just parts of the bezel are. The dial merely has a carbon motif and the case is made from PVD titanium. This does cause one to wonder why the word "carbon" features so prominently in the name of the watch, but it looks the part nonetheless.


The Basics


Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carbon Aquaracer
Reference Number:  WBD218A.FC6445 (rose gold); WBD218B.FC6446 (yellow); WBD218C.FC6447 (blue)

Diameter: 41mm
Case Material: Black PVD coated grade 5 titanium with steel and carbon bezel
Dial Color: Carbon fiber pattern with rose gold, blue, or yellow accents
Indexes: Faceted indexes polished and lacquered in rose gold or plated with black gold
Lume: Yes, grey Super-LumiNova in hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black nylon strap with black, yellow, or blue topstitching to match the dial

The Movement


Caliber: TAG Heuer Caliber 5 (Based on the ETA 2824-2)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 25.6mm
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 26

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