Introducing The TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford Watch

 

Quick Take

Following their official watch customization partnership last year, TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department have announced a new special edition Monaco that combines a Bamford-style dial color treatment with a carbon case. Based on the Calibre 11 Monaco, the TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford mixes the case and dial layout of the McQueen-worn design we know and love but evolves the format with the use of a bright blue highlight color and a rather fitting carbon case.

After the 2017 launch of an OEM-supported watch customization platform with TAG Heuer (along with Zenith and Bulgari), this new carbon Monaco is a a further step in the relationship between LVMH and Bamford, with TAG Heuer supporting not just a customized watch, but an entirely distinct expression of the Monaco, one of its most classic models.

Initial Thoughts

While this isn't the only Monaco ever made with a carbon case (remember the Monaco V4 Phantom in carbon composite?), this is an exclusive carbon treatment of the classic Monaco case and it suggests a growing confidence in the Bamford partnership and, providing you like "aquablue," it looks great.

While the Monaco Bamford may be a bit too bold for some diehard fans of the format, I dig it. I like that it does nothing to threaten the existence or legitimacy of the more classic Monaco while still managing to take the Monaco in a new direction that maintains it's connection with motorsports. Also, call me crazy, but compared to the V4 case style, the Monaco Bamford also manages to retain some of the classic appeal of the McQueen-inspired pieces. While rendered in carbon, the case is still 39mm wide and the crown remains at its legacy nine o'clock position. As for the use of Gulf-like "aquablue" (a Bamford signature) for all of the dial markings and accents, you're either going to like it or  hate it, but I think it's a confident use of the color and a nice way to set off an otherwise all-black design.

The Basics

Brand: TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department
Model:  Monaco Bamford
Reference Number: CAW2190.FC6437

Diameter: 39mm
Case Material: Carbon
Dial Color: Light blue on black
Indexes: Applied
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator leather

The Movement

Caliber: TAG Heuer Caliber 11
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 30 minute chronograph, and date
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 59

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Phillips To Auction Steve McQueen's Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513

As a follow up to last year's epic sale of Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona (and subsequent Daytona fever), Phillips has just announced that it will be selling yet another icon's iconic Rolex – the Submariner reference 5513 (not to be confused with his 5512, which sold in 2009 at Antiquorum for $234,000) that was purchased by Steve McQueen in the 1960s and gifted to his stuntman, Loren Janes, in the late '70s. McQueen and Janes started working together in 1958, and would go on to collaborate in more than a dozen movies, including Bullitt, The Getaway, and The Thomas Crown Affair. The caseback of the watch is engraved: LOREN, THE BEST DAMN STUNTMAN IN THE WORLD. STEVE.

The watch stayed with Janes and survived the Sand Fire wildfire that ripped through parts of Los Angeles in 2016. Eighteen homes were destroyed, including Janes's. All was thought to be lost, but apparently the watch was found by Janes's wife and daughter amid the ashes. The 5513 was sent to Rolex for service and restored. We aren't sure of what exact work was done in the service, but we do know that the case was refurbished and dial replaced at some point (the consignor has included a period-correct dial for the watch). The Sub was purchased from the family by Hollywood memorabilia collector and Beverly Hills Real Estate broker Michael Eisenberg (who also chased Paul Newman's Daytona), who has consigned the watch to Phillips for the October auction in New York with an estimate of $300,000 to $600,000. It is accompanied by a letter from the Janes and Rolex confirming it was indeed purchased by McQueen and serviced by Rolex. You can read more about it here and here.

But, being purchased by McQueen and being worn by McQueen are different things. It should be noted that this watch, which was previously unknown by many, has an extremely similar look to the other McQueen watch that sold in 2009. That's because while this watch was likely born with a two-line, gilt 5513 dial, it now features a matte four-line 5512 dial, making the matter more confusing. The big question we have here is when the dial was replaced – when it was in possession of McQueen (unlikely) or the Janes (possible). The one thing we do know is that the watch had this matte 5512 dial on it before it was sold to Mr. Eisenberg, which is a plus.

It should also be noted that McQueen's watches have always done very well at auction, but there is a constant debate about which Heuer Monaco he actually wore. There may have been as many as a dozen, so which is really entitled to be called the McQueen Monaco? This has been explored previously, and it's our guess we'll see something similar with these two McQueen Subs. While a matte dial 5512 Sub is what we most often think of in relation to McQueen's Rolex of choice, there is one image of McQueen wearing what appears to be a two-line-dial Submariner (what this watch was likely born with) so it is possible it is this watch. Again, with watches like this – where the provenance is not as direct as what we saw with Newman's Daytona – it is sometimes difficult to decipher how things came to be. And one must remember there are real dollars at stake. This piece should be interesting to watch based on both its condition and provenance because, as you know, in the vintage watch market, both are everything. You can read more about this listing here. （Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 replica watch）

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Hublot Classic Fusion Bol d’Or Mirabaud Chronograph in Titanium (Ref. 521.NQ.1717.QR.BOM14)

Hublot Classic Fusion Bol d’Or Mirabaud automatic chronograph watch (Ref. 521.NQ.1717.QR.BOM14) is a very nice take on the Swiss brand’s iconic Classis Fusion collection. While the differences with other models in the range seem to be only cosmetic, the choice of materials and the way they are put together makes a very strong impression. As usual, Hublot will severely limit its total production volume in order to make it a ‘real’ rarity.

It looks like the young Swiss brand has finally managed to produce a version of its  design that not only looks cool, but is actually quite exciting. While the basic shape of the timekeeper seems to be identical to that of other members of their growing Classic Fusion family, this new Hublot Classic Fusion Bol d’Or Mirabaud limited edition model delivers a very nice combination of materials and textures that make this gadget shine in all meanings of this word.

As you can see on these promotional photos, the lightweight titanium body of the device features a tasteful blend of mirror-polished (the case itself, the bezel ring and chronograph push-pieces) and satin-finished parts (the center part of its long angled lugs). This interesting mix is elegantly accented with carbon fiber insert in the bezel, the dial and even the strap where the material is stitched to black rubber band for better comfort and durability.

Although the oversized navy blue sub-dials with their sunburst pattern look a bit obvious on a watch that celebrates the 76th annual Bol d’Or Mirabaud regatta, an event which is held every year on the Lake Geneva, I must admit that the choice of color looks very organic here. The sub-dials not only provide the rugged-looking face of the timekeeper a bit more elegant look, but also make the device look more organic on a wrist of a man wearing a club blazer over a pair of blue jeans.

Of course, measuring 45 millimeters in diameter, the watch is massive, but so are other members of the Classic Fusion collection, so there is nothing to complain here about: you either take it or leave it, it is that simple. Have in mind, however, that the timepiece was designed to be beautiful, not ergonomic. Although the choice of metal makes the chronograph quite light, the shape of its case and the form of its lugs does not make this gadget terribly comfortable per se, but if you happen to own a thin and narrower than usual wrist, there is a good chance that fairly soon you will course the day you bought one.

Even if you seriously plan to order the Bol d’Or Mirabaud on-line, don’t be shy and pay a visit to your local Hublot boutique and try it or some other member of the family on your hand. Better safe than sorry, you know.

As you have probably already guessed, the number of these ultra-luxury time measuring devices that the company is going to produce will match the number of years the Bol d’Or Mirabaud regatta is in existence. Right, only 76 individually numbered pieces will be offered to a privileged few.

Hublot Classic Fusion Bol d’Or Mirabaud Chronograph in Titanium (Ref. 521.NQ.1717.QR.BOM14) watch specification

Movement: Automatic, caliber HUB 1143, 280 components, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 59
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 42 hours
Movement decoration: No data
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Case material: Titanium
Bezel material: Titanium and carbon-fiber
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 45.00 mm
Case height: No data
Lug width: No data
Dial: Carbon-fiber, blue sunburst sub-dials
Numerals: None
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, applied
Hands: Rhodium-plated, skeletonized
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Carbon fiber strap with blue stitching, sewn onto black rubber with steel deployant buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective on both sides
Case back: Solid, engraved

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