Review the Patek Philippe Calatrava "Clous de Paris" Replica
The launch of the Patek Philippe Calatrava "Clous de Paris" replica Ref. 6119 is significant among Patek Philippe's most recent releases, albeit a simple chronograph. That's because it's powered by an all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement, is the brand's new workhorse for entry-level hand-wound watches.
Visually, reference 6119 draws inspiration from past Patek Philippe Calatrava replica models, but the overall design is contemporary and enhanced with details such as faceted hour markers and textured dials. But the key feature of the referee. The 6119 is still the new movement inside.
The Case
The Patek Philippe Clous de Paris replica unmistakably bears the DNA of its ancestors with a few modern twists. The case is available in a choice of white gold, yellow gold, or rose gold, according to Deployant. The classically round case is the first 39 mm size in the line, with a polished finish accented by the Clous de Paris guilloche bezel with its intricate detailing, otherwise referred to as a hobnail styling pattern. The 6119R replica features an eggshell dial with silver grain to reflect hints of light when viewed at certain angles. Although the case has grown in circumference, it remains an ultra-thin timepiece.
The depth of the case including both sapphire crystals measures just 8.08 mm. Markers in bar styling with arrowhead faceting are applied in matching metals of precious rose, yellow, or white gold , depending on the version, with the second set of dot markers in the same material with a high polish. Faceted Dauphine hands are made to match. The simple time-only design is enhanced with a subsidiary sec onds subdial at 6 o'clock. The case back is an exhibition style that reveals a view of the mechanical workings of the movement beneath. It's protected both front and back with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal lens. The watch is as lovely flipped over as viewed from the top.
The Dial
While the case is comparable in quality to past Patek Philippe Calatrava replica models, the dial is significantly more elaborate. It's an evidently a simple dial in terms of design, but it's been executed with appealing details. Most of the details also give the watch a fresh, modern look, despite being modelled on vintage designs.
Most unusual is the bold, railway minute track. On its face, the functionality of a railway track would seem incongruous with a dress watch but it works well on the 6119. It matches the crosshairs on the seconds sub-dial, another detail that would mostly be associated with a sporty watch or a "scientific" dial.
The minute track is one of the most important elements behind the modern look of the dial, with the other being the hands. The minute and seconds scales on the white gold version are in white, making it even more modern.
At a distance, the hands can be mistaken for dauphine hands, historically the most common style of hands on the Calatrava, especially the ref. 96 and its descendants. But the hands of the ref. 6119 are a modern creation.
They are facetted thrice lengthwise, creating three faces on the hands, while having short but wide counterweights. As a result, they bring to mind hands found on sports watches. The hands are definitely a key part of the modern look, but they aren' t the best fit for the design in my opinion.
In contrast, the baton hour markers are entirely classical. They're identical to that found on the vintage ref. 96 and many subsequent Calatrava models, but slightly refined. They have steeper bevels, resulting in a sharper lower point.
More unusual are the spherical minute markers – which mean the dial has twin rows of applied markers. Once again they are inspired by similar markers found on vintage dials, but there they are affixed to the railway minute track, and serve to emphasise the modern look.
Though both versions of the ref. 6119 are alike, they differ subtly in their dial details. Each dial is finished in a manner that best suits the version. The rose gold model has what you’d expect on a conservative dress watch, a finely-grained, silver dial. The seconds register is similarly silvered and grained, but embossed with a faint concentric pattern that's almost invisible.
The white gold version, on the other hand, has a more striking dial finish. It has a pronounced vertical graining that's rarely used by Patek Philippe and only found on the ref. 5235 and ref. 5236.
Because of the finish, the grey dial varies in hue depending on the light and angle, unlike the silvered dial of the rose gold model that mostly looks the same. And the grey dial also has an obvious two tone finish because of the concentric pattern on the sub-dial, which results in a paler grey colour.
The Movement
The Patek Philippe Calatrava replica Ref. 6119 is powered by an in-house Caliber 30-255PS self-winding movement. It's ultra-thin at a mere 2.5 mm thick with a circumference of 30.4 mm featuring a double-barrel Gyromax balance with a 65-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds hacking mechanism with twenty-seven jewels. The power plant beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It's a lovely design featuring precious metals in the bridges and wheels with hours, minutes, and second functions.
Summary
Overall, the 6119 showcases the huge strides Patek Philippe has made with its entry-level models. The 6119 scores well for execution - well done for both styling and quality. In particular, the simplicity of the dial design is surprising, while the movement is ingenious and refined.
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