Hands-On The TAG Heuer Carrera 'Tête de Vipère' Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer

While the last decade and a half have seen a slow and inexorable upward creep of the cost of luxury watches, there have also been, more recently, some rather disruptive pricing strategies as well. Montblanc, for instance, introduced a steel perpetual calendar in 2014 which is just $12,800 (of course "just" is relative, thirteen grand is indisputably a lot of simoleons for us working stiffs, but you know, still). This year, Longines fielded an annual calendar for under $3,000. And in 2016, TAG Heuer introduced the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T replica watch– a tourbillon chronograph priced at $15,950, about which Patek Philippe's Thierry Stern said, very bluntly, "(it's) nearly a joke to me...if they're willing to try to kill the quality of the Swiss product, I think they're on a very good track."

As much as it might have aroused ire in some quarters, however, the race to bring in traditionally very expensive complications at lower and lower prices does make an interesting point, which is that given sufficient economies of scale, and with modern manufacturing techniques, it is possible to produce working, reliable versions of traditionally extremely expensive complications at surprisingly – even shockingly – low prices. You give up things like time-consuming hand finishing, of course, and you have lower expectations in terms of things like case complexity and dial quality, but at the current prices for a well-finished perpetual (for example) from one of the Big Three (or Four, if you want Lange in as well) this alternative approach means an awful lot of people can get into high complications today, who couldn't have five years ago.

In any event, the Tourbillon Chronograph 02T seems to be here to stay (although the price has oonched up to $17,000, I notice; still a Low! Low! Price! by the standards of modern quote fine watchmaking unquote). As a way of sweetening the pot, this year TAG Heuer has released a new version of the watch, which is a certified chronometer. And it's not just any ole' run of the mill COSC cert; instead, the watches will be certified by the observatory at Besançon, France – not far from the northern border of the Swiss Jura.

Besançon at one time had a thriving watch industry which, at its peak, employed over 20,000 workers; now only about 1,500 people work in the watch industry there, which collapsed thanks to the Quartz Crisis – most markedly with the closing of Lip, in 1975. The observatory there was, like the observatories at Kew in England, and Geneva, engaged in the certification of chronometers and it still occasionally does so today. The specific mark of certification by the Besançon observatory was, and still is, the so-called Tête de Vipère – the Viper's Head. Besançon certified its first chronometer – a marine chronometer – in 1897, but got out of the business in the 1970s; in 2006, however, it began accepting watches for certification again, and since then about 500 watches have received its approval as chronometers.

If you weren't a fan of the original design in 2016 – however much you may be wowed by the price – the Tête de Vipère is not likely to change your mind; an open dial, ceramic bezel-and-case sports chronograph with tourbillon (and of course, a somewhat inside-baseball chronometer certification) doth not scream Everyman watchmaking from the rooftops.

I am bound to say, however, that in-the-ceramic, I was pretty impressed with the execution – the case is razor sharp and the dial, though the design may raise your hackles, is clean as a whistle. It looks pretty jazzy on the wrist, too; not the kind of watch towards which I'd normally gravitate but as with another of TAG Heuer's releases this year – the much-argued-over Bamford Monaco – I surprised myself by liking the cut of its jib much more than I'd have thought possible, and I do think the Besançon association is kinda neat. The testing procedures sound more or less identical to COSC; 16 days at Besançon and 15 at COSC (a chronometer is a chronometer is a chronometer) but why not have a little terroir avec votre chronomètre, n'est-ce pas?

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Up Close:The Chopard LUC Time Traveller One Watch

Let’s face it, though we at QP do love a good world time watch, their design can lead to criticism from even the most easy-going watch enthusiast. Legibility, ease of setting, and proper management of visual clutter are but a few pieces of the puzzle that will instantly make or break a good world timer. When Chopard unveiled the L.U.C Time Traveler One, offered in platinum, rose gold, and the steel example seen here, we were instantly smitten. From an aesthetic standpoint the Time Traveler One instantly ticked all the boxes, prompting a closer examination after a bit of time on the wrist. Chopard LUC Time Traveller One replica watch.

The desgn

Starting with the visual appeal, the most distinctive design choice from this Chopard release is the use of a couple of vintage-inspired elements, most notably the compressor-style crown configuration at two o’clock and four o’clock. Chopard is not one to dabble in retro design (with the exception of one or two Mille Miglia models), yet it comes across totally naturally here when balanced against a more modern colour palette – and the conscious decision not to include a world map of any kind.

The typeface chosen for its 24 time zone cities invokes a spirit of travel, bearing a resemblance to that often seen in cartography of decades past. To be fair, the black and orange colour combination on the steel model took me a bit of time to warm up to. While reasonably legible, the off-white dial of the rose gold model, and the teal seen on the platinum model would no doubt sell remarkably well if offered in this “entry level” steel model.

The other big win for the Time Traveler One for anyone with an eye for vintage is its compressor-style case. While not a diver by any stretch (rated to only 50m of water resistance), the casing choice works perfectly from both a visual and functional level. Time and date setting is handled by the crown at two o’clock, stamped with an L.U.C logo, where as the four o’clock crown labeled with a globe handles the setting of the city disc when on the go. Measuring 42mm across and a reasonable 12.1mm thick, the Time Traveler One sits very comfortably on the wrist, and strikes a good mid-point to accommodate both smaller and larger wrists without being overpowering, nor underwhelming.

The movement

As with all things Chopard, the Time Traveler One doesn’t sell itself on visual appeal alone. Beating away at 4 Hz, the L.U.C 01.05L self-winding caliber is of course fully developed and manufactured in-house by Chopard. The caliber is chronometer certified, and offers a power reserve of 60 hours. While not a dealbreaker for many, it’s worth noting that this power reserve figure beats at least two of its closer competitors out of the water by a decent margin. The JLC Geophysic Universal Time and Montblanc 4810 Orbis Terrarum by comparison deliver a power reserve of 40 and 42 hours respectively.

The interesting thing about the world timer category is that, unlike more standard complications, playing the side-by-side comparison game isn’t so relevant. By the time you’re in the market for a world time, odds are you’re looking at it being at least the second (if not the fifth or sixth) watch to add to a collection. By then a level of appreciation has developed for particular brands, design styles, and other subjective details, leading the path to a world timer to a much more personal decision, rather than running through and ticking boxes off of a list. That said, at least at a personal level, the Chopard Time Traveler One makes quick work of ticking many (if not all) of said boxes.

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Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller 126660 ‘Black Dial’ Watch Hands-On

At Baselworld 2018 Rolex debuted an up-to-date type of the famous Deepsea Sea-Occupant watch. Today, I give my very own undertake the completely new Rolex Deepsea 126660 and look for another dial version the standard black face for your Deepsea. Will another dial color for just about any dive watch merit a unique discussion? When it is a Rolex, possibly the answer then is yes. Furthermore, it generates for me an chance to talk about my own, personal feelings about Rolex's largest, and most professional's dive watch.

The dial

The conventional black dial for your 126660 Deepsea is not such as the D-Blue (blue to black gradient dial) with regards to text. The primary difference (furthermore to colours) could be the placement and size  Deepsea  Round the D-Blue 126660 the word lies right above Sea-Occupant?± under where the hands connect. Round the the black dial, Deepsea  is smaller sized sized and placed roughly where the hands connect under Oyster Perpetual Date . I happen to such as the black dial myself, incorporated in this is the keeping the writing. Yes, we aren?ˉt even speaking in regards to the functionality, construction, or ease of this wrist watch, but rather, where a small term lies round the dial. Thank you for visiting like a watch nerd.Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller 126660 ‘Black Dial replica watch.

Speaking about text, Rolex made an appearance to require the completely new for 2018 reference 126660 to look such as the outgoing 116660, so that it stored one of the original Deepsea’s most questionable features. This is a silver rehaut ring across the dial that contains two phrases being “Original Gas Escape Valve” (speaking concerning the automated helium release valve) and “Ring Locking System,” which describes how a situation should make certain such high levels of water proof. The silver ring is actually part of the Ring Lock which is a “high-performance nitrogen-alloyed stainless ring.” Honestly, whenever you put onto this wrist watch you quickly forget it's there, in truth Rolex didn’t need to help help remind the wearer every single glance in the dial this wrist watch contains these parts/systems. I am not frequently anyone to complain about a lot of text, but I'm not sure the writing round the Ring Lock should be there. Well i suppose, it isn't that big from the provide a normally fantastic package.

Most people who placed on a Deepsea will not go underwater - as well as to simply about 13,000 foot. The Rolex Deepsea has 3,900m water proofing due to a real submarine-like situation construction. Rolex makes watches that could go much much deeper - nevertheless it barely matters unless of course obviously you're in the miniature, wearable submariner pissing contest. The primary reason individuals have a inclination to use a Rolex Deepsea (in addition to the actual fact that it is really awesome machine) could be the size. At 44mm wide and almost double thickness in the Submariner, the Deepsea can be a animal round the wrist - just one that fans love.

The Ring Locking System situation is among the reasons it might withstand such massive pressures. The azure very alone is 5.5mm thick as well as the caseback is produced from grade five titanium. For 2018 Rolex will not be while using the “904L steel” designation to see the steel they'll use. They still use 904L steel for watches, nonetheless they just won’t think of it as that. Rolex features “Oystersteel” since the preferred term, making their special 904L alloy blend unique on their behalf.

It's true that Rolex does their particular particular alloy blends created for them constantly. It is also factual that until recently, really few other watch brand used 904L stainless. 904L is harder to machine, polishes up better, and contains some corrosion resistance characteristics which will make for just about any good diving watch.

A year ago in 2017 Rolex introduced the updated Sea-Occupant 126600 in the 43mm wide situation as well as in steel. Like the short-resided Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 116600 (2014-2017), the newer Sea-Occupant now must fight due to its to exist. I ought to also show myself why I really like the 40mm wide Submariner. In my opinion a lot of it is really because the Submariner has such amazing proportions as well as the Sea-Occupant 43mm simply tries to screw it up up and provide a touch of red. I suppose likely to niche for your, but my wrist isn’t part of that crowd. In my opinion anybody who is able to properly accomplish the Sea-Occupant 126600 watch will accomplish this.

Even though there are more common elements involving the Submariner as well as the Deepsea than I have the persistence to see, these don’t placed on like the same watch. Yes, both of them are traditional-style Rolex diver’s watches. Furthermore installed on very differently and for 2018 the Deepsea 126660 finally wears as quickly (scaled up) just like a Submariner and doesn’t visually have problems with an undersized bracelet. Personally the finest improvement while using 2018 Deepsea is the better proportioned situation with matching bracelet. This wrist watch offers nothing new (updated movement), except for a similar Deepsea watch wearing experience, only better.

Rolex uses its recently debuted in-house “Superlative Chronometer” certified calibre 3235 automatic movement inside the Deepsea. This plus/minus 2 seconds precision every day movement operates at 4Hz (28,800 bph) with 72 hrs of power reserve. This really is really exactly the same movement presently inside the Rolex Datejust 41. The movement features the beginning starting time and date, getting a window at 3 o’clock.

The automated helium release valve can be a feature Rolex initially invented inside the late 1960s for serious professional divers who didn’t want their watch to destroy when helium attempted to prevent it as being the diver was hanging out in the decompression chamber. It becomes an very niche purpose by today’s standards and lots of people agree that watch brands who still implement these characteristics accomplish this only as it is another technical story to tell in regards to the watch. The thing is, the automated helium release valve is about the left-side in the situation as well as, you obtain that handy text round the Ring Lock reminding you relating to this.

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